10/31: Luang Prabang, LAOS

We had one full day in Hanoi before flying out to Luang Prabang, Laos, on Halloween. We were glad we had come back to Vietnam's capital from Ninh Binh on the 30th, a day earlier than originally planned as it meant we had a relaxing day ahead of us. Steven was able to mail home yet more souvenirs at the post office and I was able to catch up on some blog posts as I didn't think we'd have good wifi in Laos.

Sign at Hanoi's airport; We had taken a private driver instead of a taxi from our hotel as the former was about half the cost.

There were only 26 people on the small prop plane to Luang Prabang! The hour long flight cost us a pretty penny, $350 for both of us, compared to some of the other flights we've taken so far.

Flying over Laos' very mountainous terrain.

Travelers who like to visit SE Asia normally make a point of stopping off in Luang Prabang in northern Laos for a few days because the city is considered to be the heart of the country's culture. The city was inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List in December of 1995 and was originally known as Muong Sua, then Xiang Thong before changing its name to Luang Prabang (LP from now on) in 1560. LP is encircled by mountains at an elevation of over 700m above sea level and is located at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers.

Steven and I were both pretty tired by the time we got to the Manichan Guesthouse, our home away from home for 6 of the next 9 nights. The guesthouse is run by Andy, an American formerly from Boston, and Venus, his lovely Laotian wife. We have a very small room and share a bathroom with 4 other rooms on the second floor - the upside is that there is a lovely shared balcony just steps away and a filling breakfast is included in the rate.

It was fantastic just sitting on the balcony all afternoon, half reading our kindles and half dozing. I think I was tired(er?) than I thought from the hectic past few days in Vietnam. We finally bestirred ourselves in search of sustenance and found Food St.

Photos from Food St:

Luang Prabang's Food St is like a huge food court: a huge long row of food stalls with cooks grilling and frying food, and massive platters of food lining one side of a very narrow alley with communal tables and rickety benches on the other side. In the 3 or so feet in the middle, pass everyone searching for food and drink. It all makes for a very convivial if rather claustrophobic atmosphere because it's extremely hot and crowded.

Here people choose what meat they want reheated on the grill; the price is dependent on the selection of meat and size of the portion. I had the most moist piece of chicken at this stall two nights in a row. The first night, the 31st, it was served wrapped in a banana leaf and the placed in a small plastic bag for 'take away.'

This young boy heated up my food I had selected from the massive platters. The price at all the stalls was 15K kip (about $2!!) for as much food from the platters as you wanted to stuff in a large bowl. 

To figure the exchange rate, multiply each 10k kip by $1.25.

Paying homage to the sizable contingent of German travelers, I figured.

We had had enough food and of  Food St so then wandered to the end of the alley where the covered Handicraft Night Market is held nightly all up and down the city's main street. About 4ish, we learned, the street is shut down to all traffic and hundreds of artisans set up their wares on top of plastic sheets or very thin rugs on the ground the entire width of the street. The market is divided into 2 'lanes' with artisans sitting down on either side of each lane; you have to walk past a whole lot of artisans before being able to find a spot to turn around and come down the 'lane' on the other side. There's a maximum of 2 feet across each 'lane' for people to walk up and down the long row of artisans. I hope you can get a sense of what the market looks like from my description?

Photos from the Handicraft Night Market:

The Hmong people and other tribes from northern Laos are known in particular for their beautiful woven articles including cushion covers, silk scarves, wall hangings, applique blankets, pants, children's clothes, etc.

Luang Prabang's Night Market is the only Asian market I can recall that is so tranquil and absolutely devoid of hard selling. The bright colors and exquisite workmanship were a treat for our eyes.

Only natural dyes are used in these products according to the sign.

We saw and heard this man each of the three nights we walked through the market. I know you'd think we'd get bored returning to the market time after time but the experience there was so refreshing and delightful I at least didn't get bored. We'll be back in LP the day after tomorrow so I'm already looking forward to returning to the market since we've good and truly scoped it out already!

Posted on 11/4 from Nong Khiaw, Laos.